Easter is fast approaching, and if you're thinking about sewing an Easter dress, why not consider adding box pleats to the skirt of a Fairy Tale Dress? Shelley is here to guide you through the process. Let’s dive into the details!
The idea for this project came from a forum discussion about adding pleats to the Fairy Tale dress. Sandra posed the question of how to create box pleats, and she ultimately crafted a stunning version of this design. Her inspiration? An incredible Alexander McQueen dress.
I started by considering how the pleats could fit around the back of the dress without interfering with the invisible zipper. After some brainstorming, I decided that having two box pleats on each side—front and back—would leave enough space for the zipper. With pen, paper, and a measuring tape in hand, I figured out the ideal depth for the box pleats and adjusted the skirt width accordingly. To my surprise, my fabric width turned out to be perfect for the job! Even better, the box pleats aligned beautifully with the bodice darts. While this alignment was unexpected, it got me thinking about how I could plan for such precision in future projects.
If you’re curious about the math behind this process, I’m happy to break it down for you. For any pleat, the fabric folds to create three layers, with the top layer already accounted for in the pattern. However, the two layers beneath must be added. Imagine a box pleat as two pleats facing each other; you'll need four times the depth of the pleat for each box pleat.
For patterns like the Fairy Tale dress, which include gathering, you’ll need to start with the finished bodice width and then add the extra fabric required for the pleats. Figuring out the correct pleat depth involves balancing aesthetics with functionality. In my case, I found that placing the first pleat about half a pleat depth away from the side seam provided a balanced look while keeping the pleats slightly off the hips.
To calculate the precise measurements, I measured the finished bodice widths across all sizes of the Fairy Tale pattern and used those figures to determine the necessary skirt width. It was a bit of a mathematical adventure, but the results were worth it!
Below is a table that shows the new skirt pattern dimensions based on the Fairy Tale pattern sizes. These measurements include the additional fabric needed for the box pleats. You can use these dimensions to create a new pattern piece or adjust the original piece accordingly.
| Size | Skirt Height (inches) | New Skirt Width (inches) |
|------|-----------------------|--------------------------|
| 2T | 10 | 18 |
| 3T | 10.5 | 19 |
| 4T | 11 | 20 |
| 5T | 11.5 | 21 |
Once you’ve cut your new skirt pieces, it’s time to mark the placement of the box pleats. If you’re using a continuous rectangle for the skirt, start by finding the midpoint and marking the zipper allowance. From there, divide the rectangle into sections based on the measurements in the table. Use fabric chalk or an erasable pencil to mark the pleat placements, ensuring they align correctly.
To sew the pleats, bring the corresponding lines together with the fabric’s right sides facing. Baste along the marked line, press the stitched line, and adjust the pleats so the creases meet the basting stitches. Finally, pin the pleats in place and baste along the top edge of the skirt to secure them.
The rest of the dress follows the standard Fairy Tale pattern instructions. I tested this method with various sizes using interfacing and a stapler, and the math held up well, with only slight adjustments needed. Adding piping at the waist can help draw attention away from any minor imperfections.
This project was a delightful challenge, and I hope my explanation has been clear and engaging. Don’t hesitate to reach out with any questions—I’m always happy to help! Wishing you a joyful Easter season.
Happy sewing,
Shelley
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