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Knitwear is mostly made of cotton and chemical fiber cotton yarn. It is characterized by softness, elasticity, breathability, sweat absorption and comfortable wearing, such as sportswear and underwear. Knitwear, as a garment, has its characteristics in addition to its commonality with woven garments.
Process flow:
Spinning→braiding→clothing→cutting→sewing→finishing→inspection
(1) Spinning
The purpose of spinning is to wind the incoming cotton yarn into a package of certain structure and specifications to suit the knitting production. In the spinning process, it is necessary to eliminate some defects existing on the yarn, and at the same time, the yarn has a certain uniform tension, and the yarn is subjected to necessary auxiliary treatment, such as waxing, oiling, etc., to improve the knitting performance of the yarn. Improve production efficiency and improve product quality.
(2) Weaving
Weaving is a process in which a yarn is organized into a woven fabric by a loom to form a fabric. This is also the fundamental difference between knitwear and woven garments.
The weaving method can be divided into two types of weft knitting and warp knitting, and the fabrics for knitting garments are mostly weft knitted fabrics. Weft knitting is the feeding of one or several yarns from the weft direction to the working needle of the knitting machine, the yarns are sequentially bent into a loop, and the yarns are stringed to form a weft knitted fabric. The machine used to weave such a knitted fabric is called a weft knitting machine. Weft knitting has a great adaptability to the type and linear density of the processed yarn, and the variety of knitted fabrics produced is also extensive. Weft-knitted fabrics are available in a wide variety of fabrics, which can be woven into fabrics for interior and exterior garments of various tissues, and can be woven into single-piece forming and partially-formed products. The weft-knitted process and machine structure are relatively simple and easy to operate. The production efficiency is relatively high, so the weft knitting has a large proportion in the knitting industry. There are many types of weft knitting machines, which are generally distinguished by the number of needle beds, the form of needle beds and the type of needles. The warp knitting is composed of one or several sets of yarns arranged in parallel, which are respectively arranged on the knitting needle while being woven in the longitudinal direction. The machine used to weave such a knitted fabric is called a warp knitting machine. Generally, the warp knitted fabric has less dispersibility and elongation than the weft knitted fabric, and has better structure and shape stability, and its use is also wider. In addition to producing fabrics for clothes, it can also produce mosquito nets, curtains, and laces. Decorative fabrics, medical fabrics, etc., warp knitting machines can also be distinguished by needle beds and needles.
(3) Inspection of cloth
Since the quality of the grey fabric is directly related to the quality and output of the finished product, it is necessary to check whether the number of horses, size, density, lot number, and linear density meet the requirements according to the cutting cloth ingredient list before cutting. Carry out inspections, marking and quality records of various defects affecting the quality of finished products, such as color flowers, missing needles, holes, oil stains, etc.
(4) Cutting
The main process of knitting garments:
Breaking material → borrowing 划 → swatching → cutting → tying.
Borrowing is an important part of improving product quality and saving materials. In the process of breaking the material, the defects on the grey fabric are borrowed to the cutting parts or the seams.
Knitted fabrics are cut according to the warp mesh accessories. The cutting is generally carried out by means of sleeve cutting. Commonly used are flat sleeves, mutual sleeves, inlay sleeves, stitching sleeves, and slit sleeves.
Knitted fabrics should pay attention to the following items during cutting:
(1) Do not use the folded marks and printed edges on the obvious parts of the garment.
(2) Do not use the tapered hole mark in the cutting, so as not to affect the appearance of the garment.
(5) Sewing
The existing sewing technology and equipment in China's knitting industry are mainly sewing machines of medium and high speed sewing machines (commonly known as "flat cars"), medium and high speed overlock sewing machines (commonly known as "cracking cars"), stretch sewing machines, etc. .
Since the knitted fabric is composed of a coil string sleeve, the edge of the cut garment piece is prone to disintegration, so the edge of the garment sheet should be overwrapped (commonly referred to as "copying edge") and then sewn by a sewing machine or the like. The sewing machine and overlock sewing machine are the main types of sewing knitwear. In the sewing process, it is generally necessary to pay attention to the following points.
1. Sewing stitches Because the fabric of knitted fabrics has the characteristics of longitudinal and lateral elongation (ie, elasticity) and the disadvantage that the edge stitches are easily detached, the seams of the stitched knitwear should satisfy:
(1) The stitches should have stretchability and strength compatible with the knitted fabric.
(2) The stitching should prevent the fabric coil from being dislodged.
(3) Appropriate control of the density of the stitches. For example, the stitching density of the flat sewing machine of thick fabric is controlled at 9 to 10 needles / 2 cm, the seam density of the overlock sewing machine is 6 to 7 needles / 2 cm, and the stitch density of the flat sewing machine of the thin fabric is controlled at 10 to 11 needles / 2cm, the seam stitching density of the overlock machine is 7-8 needles/2cm.
2. The suture cotton cotton fabric is made of 9.8tex×4 or 7.4tex×3 pure cotton and polyester-cotton blended yarn. The chemical fiber knitted fabric uses 7.8tex×2 elastic nylon yarn and 5tex×6 nylon thread. The suture must meet the following quality requirements:
(1) The cotton thread (sewing) for sewing machines should be made of combed cotton, which has high strength and uniformity.
(2) The suture should have a certain elasticity to prevent the thread from being broken due to the twisting or crushing of the thread during the sewing process.
(3) The suture must be flexible.
(4) The suture must be even and smooth, reduce the resistance or friction of the suture in the groove and pinhole, and avoid the defects such as broken wire and uneven stitch tension.
3. Needle sewing machine needles are also called sewing needles and needles. In order to achieve the ideal fit of the needle with the seam and the stitch, a suitable needle must be selected.
(6) ironing
Knitwear is flattened and dimensioned by ironing. When ironing, the liner is placed in the garment to maintain a certain shape and size. The size of the liner is slightly larger than that required for the garment to prevent the size from being too small after retraction. The ironing temperature is generally controlled between 180 ° C and 200 ° C, which is safer and less prone to yellowing and coking.
(7) Finished product inspection
Finished product inspection is a comprehensive inspection before leaving the factory, including appearance quality and intrinsic quality. The appearance inspection contents include dimensional tolerance, appearance defects, and seam fastness. The internal testing items include fabric unit area weight, color fastness, and shrinkage rate.
Knitted fabric activity, coating, paste printing process
Release time: 2008-02-20
Dyeing department preparation cloth→bleaching/dyeing→dry cloth→finishing ps→printing→drying/steaming cloth→dyeing part washing→dry cloth→setting→quality inspection→shipping
1 reactive printing
Dyed background (including semi-bleaching or bleaching, but the dyeing cylinder can not be fixed and soft) → dry cloth (150 ° C color cloth, 130 ° C bleaching cloth) → cross-finishing department to do ps (water setting, color cloth 160 ° C, bleaching Cloth 150 ° C) → printing (active pulp, rotary screen or flat machine printing, 130 ° C dry cloth) → steamed cloth (102x10min) → dyeing part washing water (washing water, boiling hot water, depending on the color depth and fastness of the printing Do solid color) → dry cloth (150 ° C color cloth, 130 ° C bleaching cloth) → finished product (soft oil or resin) → product inspection cloth (plug net, walking position, etc.).
2 paint printing
Dyed background (including semi-bleaching or bleaching, but the dyeing cylinder can not be fixed and soft) → dry cloth (color cloth
150 ° C, bleaching cloth 130 ° C) → cross finishing department to do ps (over water stereotypes, color cloth 160 ° C, bleach cloth 150 ° C) → printing (coating pulp bottom, rotary screen or flat machine printing, 150 °C dry cloth) → pay Finishing department (depending on the printing area or fastness) → finished product (soft oil or resin) → product inspection cloth (plug net, walking position, etc.).
3 paste printing
Dyed background (dyeing cylinder can not be fixed and soft) → dry cloth (150 ° C) → finishing department to do ps (over
Water setting, 160°C) → Printing (printing pulp bottom, rotary screen or flat machine printing, 150°C dry cloth) → Finishing department dry setting (color drawing 170°Cx24m/min dry setting, whitening 160°C x24m/min Drying)→Dyeing part washing water (washing machine washing water, cylinder fixing color)→dry cloth (150°C)→finished product (soft oil or resin)→product inspection cloth (plug net, walking position, etc.)
Source: China Textile Network Textile Forum
Craft description and production process of down garments
Comments: 0 Article Views: 310 Times chengweiking Posted at 2007-03-31 14:01
Craft description and production process of down garments
[ERP expert information in the apparel industry] Process description of down products:
Crop:
1. The fabric is chased by color;
2, face, inside, and bile materials are required to be revised according to the version, and must not be missing or multiple pieces;
3, cotton parts: 100g loose cotton: cap in the body × 1, cap piece × 2;
200g cotton: collar;
100g needle cotton: 1/2 small collar, threshold, 1/2 pocket × 2;
4, add bile parts: threshold, pocket, small collar, collar;
Production:
1. Line reference sample and drawings;
2. Needle distance: 11-13 needles/3cm bright stitches, 12-14 stitches/3cm dark stitches. 11# machine needle for jointing and 9# machine needle for lead wire;
3, the line is smooth (except for special requirements), the upper line is used with the body color line;
4, the line of each part should be straight, there must be no two single jumps and continuous jump stitches within 30cm of sewing stitches, and the overlock stitches are not allowed to jump stitches. The surface and the bottom line should be elastic and suitable, and the needle should be hit back and forth;
5, sleeve shirring: first smear on a single piece of clothing, and then refill the lining. The pleat line and the shoulder seam are sewn;
6, steam eye plus color insulation mat;
7, the body zipper requires a level, can not wave. The shackle chain pull head requires left and right inserts, 缉0.1cm open line;
8. The main standard and the small nail are in the middle and the back; the water washing standard is 1/2 at the left side of the inner side;
9. All splicing seams require overlocking;
10, the inner surface of the cuff is a joint;
11, pocket 1CM decorative open line first filled with cashmere after the line;
12, cotton lean on the cloth, the hat circle 0.1cm open line, the hat front 0.1+2.5cm open line. The hat base is 0.1 bright. Cap slits with strips. Specific line reference drawings;
13, shoulder seams, underarms, shawls and strips;
14, semi-finished products must be small hot, ironing flat clothes, no aurora;
15. Other specific practices refer to the sample clothing;
Finishing:
1. All garments must be steamed and the semi-finished cages are hot.
2, wireless head, no oil stains, no traces. There is no debris in the pocket. Neat, clean and flat;
3, the seams are required to be ironed and flat, without aurora.
package:
1. Fold the back piece in the order of the hat and sleeve, and fold the body back one fold;
2, when packaging, the tag, etc. should be leveled and leveled in order, buckled on the top of the zipper;
3, according to the ratio of boxing, the garments are required to be folded neatly and evenly.
4, the box needs to indicate the section number, product name, type, color, quantity, production unit;
5, tag, washing the standard to be divided into paragraph number, color number, number and so on. Mark the inspector number, the general inspection number, and make gray duck down or white duck down.
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